RAAS bills itself as Jodhpur's first boutique hotel, but that doesn't even begin to do it justice. The bedrooms are hip and the bathrooms sleek, but RAAS's main selling point is its stunning location, smack in the middle of Jodhpur's ancient walled city, close to the Clock Tower, and with amazing views of mighty Mehrangarh Fort, the best-preserved fort in India (a trick of perspective makes it seem as though you could reach out and touch it). The hotel itself is a combination of new and old: some rooms are in the buildings of the original haveli, now restored, while others are in entirely new buildings, cleverly constructed from the local rose stone so that, although modern, they do not clash. In a central courtyard is the hotel swimming pool and two restaurants. There is also a small spa. Unlike most of Jodhpur's smart hotels, RAAS manages to be both stylish and soothing without feeling the need to remove itself from city life altogether. The call to prayer from a nearby minaret punctuates your stay atmospherically, and you only have to step outside the hotel's majestic gates to find yourself on a crowded street, full of motorcycle rickshaws, cows and puri sellers. It's a truly seductive combination.