Poseidonion Grand Hotel

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On the leafy island of Spetses, the street names read like a Who's Who of Greek shipping dynasties: Niarchos, Lemos, Carras. High walls hide their weekend homes. Right on the harbour is one landmark you can't miss: the Poseidonion Grand, built in 1914. Modelled on the grand hotels of the Côte d'Azur, the Poseidonion instantly attracted Athenian high society. In the lobby bar - with its potted palms and plush sofas - you can imagine all-night poker games watched by ladies in Lanvin gowns. There's even a jukebox with tunes from the roaring Twenties. Sensitively restored by the Vordonis family, the hotel retains many original features: stucco ceilings, patterned floor tiles and a cantilevered marble staircase. Bedrooms in the main building are decorated in soothing dove grey and duck-egg blue; soaring ceilings and expansive sea views compensate for their compactness. At the rear are 20 larger rooms overlooking a pool built around a palm tree. The Poseidonion had the first spa in Greece: four whiffy sulphur baths. Its modern incarnation, with mosaic floors and antique basins, is a serene setting for Valmont facials. Celebrity chef Vassilis Kallidis has created a menu of modern Greek classics (chickpea croquettes with lemon and white tarama; sweet-and-sour shrimp souvlaki) using produce from the hotel's organic garden. In summer there's also a Japanese fusion restaurant.

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