Refugia Chiloé
Stilt-House Modernism and Island Magic on Chile’s Remote Rilán Peninsula
A Floating Silhouette on the Edge of the World
Set on the windswept Rilán Peninsula, Refugia Chiloé rises like a geometric apparition above the tidal flats of Pullao Bay. Originally opened in 2012 and now returned to its original name, the lodge blends the island’s palafito stilt-house heritage with modern architectural daring. Mobil Arquitectos conceived the structure as a long, angular form elevated above the land—partly solar-powered, wood-clad, and pierced with glass to draw in the ever-shifting light of Chiloé. The recently added wing, an elongated shingled volume seemingly floating on a base of windows, sharpens the dialogue between landscape and design. It’s a building shaped by tides, clouds, folklore and wind, modestly perched yet monumentally atmospheric.
Warm Woods, Island Textures, and Handmade Soul
Inside, Refugia feels deeply local yet quietly luxurious. Designers Ignacio Yrarrazaval, Carolina Delpiano and Alexandra Edwards wrapped the spaces in lenga timber, honey-toned woods, natural fibres, and hand-carved objects from Chiloé’s artisans. Wool, stone, and soft textiles lend a cocooning calm that works in harmony with the wild backdrop outside. The 24 rooms—12 original, 12 in the new wing—all face the water. Walls, floors and ceilings glow in warm timber. Oversized windows frame the bay. Big bathtubs come with wine holders for long soaks at dusk. And every guest receives hand-knitted wool slippers, a tender detail that captures the spirit of the island.
A Lodge for Explorers, Naturalists, and Story Seekers
Refugia is a basecamp for experiences that reveal Chiloé’s subtle magic. The hotel’s own boat, Williche, slips between neighbouring islands, mussel farms and mirror-still waters, carrying kayaks for more adventurous wanderings. On land, guests find trails alive with hummingbirds, arrayán trees cool to the touch, black vultures circling high above, and the world’s smallest deer hiding among the greenery. Horses wait in the stables for relaxed canters across meadows, and the hotel’s guides—experts of the archipelago—craft excursions that blend nature, culture, myth and memory.
Uma Spa: Waters, Woods, and Wellness
Perched on the second floor with vast wetland views, the Uma Spa is a sanctuary of heat, water and silence. A sauna, steam room, massage suite and an eight-person Jacuzzi look outward across Pullao’s shifting tides. Treatments lean into earthy ingredients: goat-milk baths scattered with rose petals, hot-stone rituals, reflexology, deep-tissue massage, scrubs drawn from local botanicals. Deckchairs line the windows, inviting guests to drift between warm water and cool sea air. Like everything at Refugia, wellness here is shaped by the landscape—soothing, grounding, and deeply sensory.
Cuisine Rooted in Sea, Soil, and Tradition
Every meal is served in the relaxed dining room overlooking the bay. The kitchen draws from Chiloé’s flavours—a region defined by cold waters and fertile earth. Expect tender smoked pork, just-caught mussels, seasonal produce, world-class ceviche, and fresh seafood paired with excellent Chilean wines. Mussels seen from the Williche earlier in the day may appear at dinner, connecting excursions directly to the plate. Meals feel communal and unpretentious, anchored in authenticity rather than polish.
The Island That Rewrites Expectations
Most travellers race past Chiloé en route to Patagonia or the Atacama, unaware that this archipelago holds its own enchantments—stories of ghost ships, wooden churches, colourful stilt villages, weathered landscapes and a warm island culture shaped by myth and sea. Refugia makes the case, elegantly and emphatically, that Chiloé is a destination worth lingering in. Early-morning fog scudding over wetlands, a lone hummingbird hovering in front of you, a crimson sunset over the bay—these moments redefine what Chilean wilderness can feel like.
A Return to Family, Heritage, and Vision
Founded by the Purcell family—also behind the legendary Ski Portillo and co-founders of Tierra Hotels—Refugia now steps confidently into a new chapter under its original name. The ethos remains unchanged: architecture that honours the island’s past, design that respects its materials, and hospitality that feels intimate rather than staged. Natural cross-ventilation cools the lodge in summer; wooden shingles warm it in winter; and every architectural choice acknowledges the rhythms of place.
DNA Hotels Verdict
Refugia Chiloé is a quiet revelation. A modernist stilt-house lodge infused with island craftsmanship, a design retreat that feels deeply personal, a coastal sanctuary shaped by tides and myth. It is a hotel that understands its landscape intimately and invites guests to do the same. For travellers seeking beauty without artifice, luxury without excess, and nature without crowds, Refugia Chiloé is a rare and unforgettable find.
